Nicaj-Shosh to Lake Shkodra

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The second half is shorter off-road plus paved road from the pass back to Shkodra.

Total distance: 99471 m
Max elevation: 1731 m
Min elevation: 47 m
Total climbing: 2392 m
Total descent: -3473 m
Total Time: 07:49:19

Staying at Nicaj-Shosh

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The place has one restaurant, one bar and a decayed house which serves as a garbage collector.

We had dinner at the restaurant. Instead of a menu, the waiter/ cook opened the freezer and we chose some meat. Preparing meant that he locked the restaurant, ran to the village and came back with bread.

The bar was run by a one-legged guy who sold us a Jack Daniel’s bottle full of home made Raki and later joined us at the fire.

When we arrived, a group of 8 young boys with their leader greeted us with “Hey Berlin”. They were “Wandervogel” and left to search a place to sleep in the woods.

Als Wandervogel wird eine 1896 in Steglitz (heute Berlin) entstandene Bewegung hauptsächlich von Schülern und Studenten bürgerlicher Herkunft bezeichnet, die in einer Phase fortschreitender Industrialisierung der Städte und angeregt durch Ideale der Romantik sich von den engen Vorgaben des schulischen und gesellschaftlichen Umfelds lösten, um in freier Natur eine eigene Lebensart zu entwickeln. Damit stellte der Wandervogel den Beginn der Jugendbewegung dar, die auch für Reformpädagogik, Freikörperkultur und Lebensreformbewegung im ersten Drittel des 20. Jahrhunderts wichtige Impulse setzte. Source: Wikipedia


Shortly after, two French arrived walking. We had passed them earlier, they were exhausted from 25 km walk and we invited them for a beer. The second-from-right-side guy is the genius waiter/ cook.

Later, a Czech family arrived and we sat at the fire with them having raki. It turns out he is the Czech distributor for a couple of off-road equipment brands.

Fierzë to Nicaj-Shosh

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The first part of the famous Theth route which is a must for every off-roader. We drove it in reverse direction than most guidebooks recommend. Our first day was challenging and quite long.

Total distance: 137017 m
Max elevation: 1258 m
Min elevation: 43 m
Total climbing: 3703 m
Total descent: -2796 m
Total Time: 07:45:59

Theth Route: Other Off-Roaders

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We met 2 Polish groups of 10 and 12 cars.

1 lead car. 1 trailing repair car. 8-10 guest cars. All driving in a chain. How boring!

The locals do it with a 2WD Mercedes bus. No frills.

Hitchhikers from Poland

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We took Marta and Igor. Unfortunately, they had to share one seat, but they managed well.

Both are currently finishing their studies. Marta is a neurological surgery doctor and Igor is a vet.

Ferry from Fierzë to Lake Komani

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Some years ago, another ferry sunk. Not sure why they keep it.

The DJ served a good mix of Albanian and Greek pop.


Nice chats with a couple from the UK. He was a head teacher and she was a social worker.

Chaos at Lake Komani arrival point.

Kukës to Fierzë

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Total distance: 110624 m
Max elevation: 861 m
Min elevation: 214 m
Total climbing: 2030 m
Total descent: -2228 m
Total Time: 03:32:13

Mine Workers in Action

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The guy lives in a camper across the street. He had worked in the mine, which is not operational anymore for 17 years.

He explains that these 2 pieces have 5% of Chromium.

While chromium metal and Cr(III) ions are not considered toxic, hexavalent chromium (Cr(VI)) is toxic and carcinogenic. Abandoned chromium production sites often require environmental cleanup. Source: Wikipedia.

Gjuras to Kukës

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Total distance: 96328 m
Max elevation: 1258 m
Min elevation: 347 m
Total climbing: 1962 m
Total descent: -2810 m
Total Time: 08:18:13


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Finished: The gate, the entrance door, the ground floor windows, the roof.

Unfinished: All other.

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